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Clark Smith's avatar

There's a technical reason why imported wines are not fungible, that is, why California wines make unacceptable substitutes. It called sterile bottling. California is, for the most part, in the business of making good, clean, stable wines that don't develop in the bottle. To do this, they eliminate all microbes from their wines using integrity-testable (bubble-pointable) absolute filters or other alternatives such as Velcorin injection, which kills everything and stabilizes the wine. They do this because California only started making modern table wines in the 1960s and we still are fearful of active microbiome.

By contrast, Europeans have been making wines without these practices since Roman times. Soulful bottle bouquet is the trademark of all the great wines of Europe: Bordeaux, Burgundy, Chateauneuf du Pape, Barolo and so on. This earthy, leathery, tobacco-like funk is what caused many, perhaps even most winelovers to lose their minds, spend fortunes and perhaps even devote their lives to wine production and sales. This includes California winemakers. They love to drink Bordeaux, but they're afraid to actually make it.

If the Trump tariffs come to pass, it will drive winelovers away from the good stuff. Already, wines with high scores are out of reach, but we still have lots of affordable European stuff thanks to valiant explorers like Kermit Lynch. But take that Guy Breton Regnie from $37 to $75 and Kermit will not go to the Russian River for a substitute. He's likely just hang up his spurs.

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Stuart Spencer's avatar

The best place to start is the elimination of the “wine substitution duty drawback” that allows imported wine to enter the US marketplace virtually tax free. This is not a tariff, but a US subsidy that benefits a handful of large global wine companies that both import and export. For each gallon exported, they are able to reclaim 99% of the excise (alcohol) taxes of comparable wine imported. In 2003 the feds changed the rules allowing for substitution. Since then, we’ve seen an explosion in cheap bulk imports that has seen CA wine market share drop from 69% in 2000 to 52% in 2020. In the past six years this subsidy has given over $200 million back to a handful of large companies on the backs of California growers, vintners, ag workers and rural communities.

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